Cider culture
A version of this column was published 12/8/21 in The Observer and The Review & Express.
It’s time we give cider a chance. Not the grocery store cider you might consider a guilty pleasure due to sugar content. And not the still non-alcoholic juice you look forward to grabbing from your favorite farm in the fall. I’m talking about the local, homegrown, small batch hard ciders found in the Finger Lakes year round.
A recent long weekend in Ithaca sampling regional offerings opened my eyes to the complexity of cider, the parallels to wine, and the incredible talent in our backyard driving the industry forward.
Unlike wine, with only a few dozen grape varieties reaching critical acclaim, cider seems unstoppable with around 1000 cultivated apples deemed appropriate for bottling. Those varieties don’t include the round, shiny and sweet Fuji, Gala, or Golden Delicious apples we find at Wegman’s. Instead, cider apples are tiny, bitter and often misshapen fruit with skins that contain tannins and contribute to intricacy in the bottle.
There are strong parallels to wine throughout the growing and production elements. For example, the diverse soil types and microclimates of the region make it a perfect place to grow fruit and embrace the region’s potential. The process features similarities too, with apples picked, washed, ground, and pressed into juice. That juice is then fermented, converting sugar into alcohol. Cider can sometimes include other fruit, like pears, which receive the same treatment through fermentation.
Cidermakers often use Méthode Champenoise, Pét-nat or Cava style treatments to create sparkling options. Bottlings can vary from bone-dry to off and semi-dry, and some producers offer late harvest or even fortified options. And ABV typically falls under 10%, meaning that cider is a lot of fun without a headache the next day.
It also turns out that glassware is important, with wine glasses providing more depth to the aromatics on the nose than a can, bottle, or beer glass ever could. And though the beverage often conjures visions of fall, cider is always crushable, regardless of the season.
With over 100 cideries in New York producing world-class bottles, we’re just getting started. And in my personal quest to drink bubbles (almost) daily, cider seems like a great option to throw in the mix.
There were a few notable bottles from my trip worth seeking out, should you decide to give cider a chance too:
Black Diamond Cider & Redbyrd Orchard Cider Black is Gold
This tart and tasty annual cidery collaboration and blend donates all proceeds to two local social equity organizations. The recent first vintage benefited OAR of Tompkins County and The Food Justice Project.
Eve’s Cidery 2-Year Pommeau
Despite being in business since 2001, the 2021 Pommeau is only the third to be produced by Eve’s Cidery and what a stunner. Featuring both apple and pear spirits, think of Pommeau like Port and enjoy after dinner.
Finger Lakes Cider House Sidra Natura
Sidra means cider in Spanish and couldn’t be a more perfect name for this easy sipper. Lightly funky and just a touch off-dry, it features bubbles reminiscent of a Spanish Cava–beautifully tiny and delicate.
New York Cider Company Naturist
Here’s a fun fact: the fruit in this bottle is sourced from pre-prohibition apple orchards on a nudist colony in Moravia, New York. Described as “bracingly tart” by the cidery, Naturist is a thought-provoking Pét-nat style option.
Redbyrd Orchard Cloudsplitter Extra Brut
Created with a blend of 35 estate grown, fermented, and bottled apples, the Cloudsplitter Extra Brut is certified biodynamic and lovey with cheese and charcuterie. Giving back is a major part of the Redbyrd ethos; the brand donates a portion of all revenue to the Seneca Art & Culture Center at Ganondagan as a way to honor the Haudenosaunee before them.
South Hill Cider String Theory Wild Fermented Cider
The name String Theory is a nod to the string music the cidermaker plays to his fermentations. The result is a mouthwatering, fruit forward cider that pairs well with a substantial meal like roasted chicken with root vegetables. Happy pairing!
Maiah Johnson Dunn is a writer based in the Finger Lakes region. Visit maiah.com for more.