It’s Saperavi’s time to shine in the Finger Lakes

A version of this column was published was published 1/12/22 in The Observer and The Review & Express.

The earliest traces of wine production date back 8,000 years to fragments of a Georgian Qvevri, an oversized clay wine barrel shaped like an egg that’s reminiscent of an amphora. The discovery solidified Georgia the country (not the state) as the birthplace of wine.

Of the over 400 indigenous grape varieties grown in Georgia, only 38 are designated for commercial use. And within those 38, just two are grown and receive name recognition here in the Finger Lakes: Rkatsiteli and Saperavi.

Meaning color or dye in Georgian, Saperavi is a teinturier grape with dark skins, flesh and juice. Alternatively, other red varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Pinot Noir have dark skins and clear flesh. The grape, which is cold hardy and disease resistant, has gained popularity over the years thanks to it’s consistently high-quality fruit production, seemingly despite difficult growing seasons. The dark and inky red generally offers pronounced red and black fruit flavor profiles, and carries a refreshing acidity that’s not just a hallmark of our region, but of the grape as well.

These were just a few of the facts learned from instructors Erika Frey and Lasha Tsatava at a Saperavi Seminar hosted by Dr. Frank Winery. The location felt appropriate given the variety was first planted in 1958 by Dr. Frank himself during the vinifera revolution. The winery’s Saperavi releases include a small portion of those original vines in every bottle today.

The seminar, which also featured McGregor Vineyard and Standing Stone Vineyards, brought wine trade and media together for a deep dive into Saperavi in the Finger Lakes. It seems the Finger Lakes became an early adopter of the grape, and at McGregor, they’ve grown Saperavi for 40 years. The brand became widely known for their recently retired Black Russian Red, a blend that included the Russian grape, Sereksiya Charni as well. In 2017, they released a 100% Saperavi label for the first time in three decades. The last was a 1985 vintage, which is rumored to have been the first made commercially available in the US.

Additionally, Seneca Lake boasts the largest acreage of Saperavi outside the Republic of Georgia found at Standing Stone Vineyard. What started as just two experimental rows in 1995 have expanded over time to nearly seven acres. Hermann J. Wiemer’s acquisition of Standing Stone has led to more exploration and offerings beyond reds, like still and sparkling rosés, and fortified wines.

The wineries represented the three largest Saperavi producers in the region, and all paired wines with a Georgian supra, or feast, prepared onsite by NYC restaurant Chama Mama. The afternoon provided a full cultural immersion accentuated by beautiful wines like the Standing Stone Sparkling Saperavi Rosé, 2013 McGregor Black Russian Reserve, and a 2011 Dr. Frank Cuvée Rouge. The ageability shows the true potential of Saperavi as a flagship Finger Lakes varietal alongside Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Blaufränkisch.

2022 will bring more immersive experiences like this, as well as a Saperavi Festival for trade and consumers alike. As the year also marks Dr. Frank’s 60th Anniversary, the winery hints at a robust schedule of experiences starting in the spring.

To explore on your own, there are currently just 13 growers and producers working with Saperavi (and Rkatsiteli) in the Finger Lakes. They include: Amberg Grape Vines, Azure Hill Winery, Beckhorn Vineyards, Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, Damiani Wine Cellars, Hermann J. Wiemer Vine Nursery, Idol Ridge Winery, Keuka Lake Vineyards, Keuka Spring Vineyards, McGregor Vineyard, Shalestone Vineyards, Standing Stone Vineyards and Weis Vineyards.