Reflections on wine and travel

A version of this column was published was published 11/10/21 in The Observer and The Review & Express.

“Please don’t talk his ear off, honey,” I begged. My husband and I were visiting Javelina Leap Vineyard & Winery and the tasting room associate, who stepped away to grab our selections, was a prime victim. It was our first vacation since 2019 and Andy was excited to talk to strangers.

I can’t really blame him–after two years of just us at home, it was thrilling to be on the road and meet new people. With a wedding in Tucson, and a desire to travel, we crafted a road trip itinerary of mostly outdoor experiences for a long weekend out west.

We drove from downtown Tucson through Phoenix to the pending AVA of Verde Valley (near Sedona), where we geared up for a day of wine tasting. Compared to the Finger Lakes, Verde Valley is much smaller with 11 wineries, 125 acres of planted vineyards, and plans to establish more of both in the near future. According to the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, the Finger Lakes boasts 144 wineries across 2.6 million acres (only 9,393 of which are planted). Unlike home, there are no spellbinding lakes and rolling hills of grapes in Arizona, but rather red rock mountains, yellow grass blowing in the wind, and breathtaking vistas for miles.

We started at Chateau Tumbleweed, where we were served new-to-us varieties like Aglianico by a pirate named Lou (it was Halloween, afterall). Our next stop was the haunted mining town of Jerome for people watching and a flight at Caduceus Cellars, where Maynard James Keenan, the lead singer of the rock band Tool, serves as both owner and winemaker. From there, we drove further into the valley, stopping at D.A.Ranch for a tasting before learning no wines were available for purchase due to overwhelming customer support during the pandemic.

Only a couple of the wineries we visited offered Seyval Blanc and Riesling, while most offered Cabernet Franc. We were struck by how much they all tasted like place–with notes reminiscent of the deserts where they were grown. And we were impressed at the commitment to good wine, with most juice traveling from the Sonoita AVA, sitting six hours south.

Arizona felt like home at our last stop, Javelina Leap. Perhaps it was the warm wood tones of the tasting room, which we had to ourselves. Or the striking view of the sun setting over the mountains. Or, maybe it was Morgan behind the bar, who was eager to talk about Finger Lakes wines, and so generous with his time, knowledge, and recommendations.

Suddenly, I found myself chattier than normal, despite asking my husband for the opposite when we arrived. It turns out the visit was a reminder that wine is not just a beverage, but a connector, and a full experience worth being enjoyed. Our conversation about regions led to a tour of the winery, a few extra pours, and a couple of new friends.

That night, we enjoyed dinner, local beers and live music at Vino di Sedona, which seemed full of locals. The next day, we found ourselves visiting Atsuo Sakurai, an award-winning master Sake brewer in Holbrook, where we added a bottle of rice wine to the case we brought home. Both were recommendations that Morgan said we just couldn’t miss.

We took our time on the way back to Tucson for our return flight, stopping at Meteor Crater, the strip on Route 66, the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest, and a drive-by of Arizona’s very own Seneca Lake. A coffee break at a quaint mountainside convenience store introduced us to another Sedona local who seemed surprised we traveled from Upstate New York just for wine and mountains.

Our last stop was to look at the stars in the desert without the light pollution of the city. Seeing the Milky Way glow in a way that it never does at home made me realize something: I don’t think we’re meant to stay in the same place, around the same people, existing in the same very tiny world forever. I think we’re meant to be outdoors, and to explore. I think we’re meant to meet new people, breathe different air, and discover new food and drink that stretches our imagination.

We landed in Rochester refreshed, more appreciative of home, and excited for all there is to see (and drink) next.

Maiah Johnson Dunn is a writer based in the Finger Lakes region. Visit maiah.com for more.

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