To new beginnings at Knapp Winery
A version of this column was published was published 03/31/22 in The Observer and The Review & Express.
Five years ago, Cole Wilson decided it was time to move on from his career trading foreign currencies. He wasn’t sure what was next, but when his wife Karen asked what he enjoyed, Cole jokingly answered, “I like wine.”
While initially a playful response, his answer set into motion a new reality for the Wilsons. “I believe that you make your own luck, if you will. You have to grab opportunities,” says Cole, who decided to take the leap in 2019. He reached out to friends in the Finger Lakes wine industry, and landed a gig working harvest at Damiani Wine Cellars. The seasonal work turned into a full-time Director of Operations position that Cole calls an invaluable learning experience. In December 2021, the Wilsons took over ownership of Knapp Winery & Vineyard Restaurant.
Photo provided by the winery.
The purchase feels nostalgic for Cole in some ways. He and his family have many memories of tastings in the winery and meals at the restaurant, and even rediscovered branded glasses in their cabinets after the purchase.
It’s likely Knapp evokes these feelings for many, having been established in 1984 on Cayuga Lake. While the opportunities for growth are endless, staying true to the history of the brand is important to Cole. Instead of making sweeping changes, his focus is improving upon the already strong foundation. “I want to see the quality of the wines raised across the board,” he says. “If we’re going to make a sweet fruit wine, we should make the best sweet fruit wine we possibly can.” High quality vinifera offerings under a new brand are also high on his ambitious list for the future. “I’m an optimist and I want to shoot for perfection,” says Cole with a smile. “And while I know perfection isn’t possible, that doesn’t mean you don’t try.”
His first step was hiring winemaker Vanessa Hoffman. The California native comes to the Finger Lakes with experience at Groth Vineyards, Decoy Wines and Ridge Vineyards. Vanessa also earned her Master’s in Viticulture and Enology in Italy prior to working in Piemonte and Chianti. “I was drawn to the Finger Lakes for its acid-driven wines and its exciting community of winemakers and grape growers,” explains Vanessa in an earlier interview. “The Finger Lakes has been growing grapes for a long time, but now is experiencing a renaissance of winemaking that is thrilling to see.”
Since coming onboard, Vanessa’s been able to experiment with blending the juice from the 2021 harvest sitting in tank and barrel. “We actually had a lot more influence than I ever anticipated,” says Cole, who didn’t expect to be releasing bottles with their influence until spring 2023. He’s especially excited about a Saperavi Rosé being released next month: “it’s over the top–it’s really, really good and Vanessa had a lot to do with that one.”
Vanessa seems equally excited about the rosé, which she says is magenta-colored. “I love to drink it with grilled flank steak turned into tacos with a fire-roasted tomatillo salsa and a corn salad.”
With 100 acres of land and only 40 under vine, Cole has big plans for growth in the future. Mentions of new plantings and additional production space alongside the new brand (and separate tasting space) focused on premium vinifera are all down the pipeline but for now the main focus is the fast approaching season. The restaurant, which is undergoing a slight refresh, will reopen on Mother’s Day for lunch and expand to dinner service starting June 1st.
While it sounds like a busy time for the winery, Cole says this moment isn’t overwhelming but exciting. The more he talks about what’s to come, the more he lights up at the potential: “you have to take some risks, and hope for the best.”