Wines for kissing summer goodbye
A version of this column was published was published 9/22/21 in The Observer and The Review & Express.
Welcome to that funny time of year. That time when the air on your morning dog walks starts to hit differently. It’s a little cooler, and crisper, and you realize a light sweater might be a good idea. The birds sound a bit sleepier, or maybe that’s just you as the window of sunlight begins to get shorter on either end.
You breathe a little deeper as the season starts to change. You might have even been waiting for this moment after our extremely wet, hot and humid summer.
But this is Upstate New York and if I’ve learned anything since moving here, it’s that second summer is just around the corner for one last hurrah.
It’s a perfect time to brush up on how to layer clothing again, with hot days and cool nights. You’re likely to get a bit more use out of your floral prints and pops of color. You might even enjoy a bit more time on the back porch.
Should the latter be true, you’ll need porch wine to pair it with. Here are a few wines I’ve been enjoying lately as the season turns.
Keuka Lake Vineyards Vignoles CO2
Keuka Lake Vineyards is the only winery I know that’s taken on such a commitment to the hybrid grape of vignoles. I think we often turn our nose up at hybrids given the history of winemaking here, but makers like KLV are working hard to show us the grape’s true potential. So, here’s your reminder that hybrid varieties can make great wine, and that we don’t need a special occasion to enjoy bubbly. We call this sparkler a “porch pounder” in our house. It’s easy and refreshing with a touch of sweetness. Perfect straight out the fridge and best enjoyed with company.
Osmote Seneca Lake Chardonnay
Chardonnay is a very alienating grape. I blame this on market trends forcing over-extracted, buttery, oak-bombs on the consumer. If that’s not your jam, try something local. Osmote Wine is a champion of Finger Lakes chardonnay. And rightfully so–in a region doubled down on riesling, Osmote chose to focus on our second most planted varietal for their very first vintage in 2014. The wine went on to win Best Chardonnay in NY at the 2017 New York Wine and Food Classic. The current vintage offers delicacy, clarity, and delightful texture that requires sip after sip. Pair with one last lobster roll (toasted & buttered) al fresco.
Lamoreaux Landing T23 Unoaked Cabernet Franc
Did you know cabernet franc is the parent grape of both merlot and cabernet sauvignon? It gets a bad rap, likely due to a lack of consumer understanding, but it is absolutely worth exploring and this unoaked version by Lamoreaux Landing is a great place to start. There are a lot of reasons to stockpile this wine, but my favorite is the use of carbonic maceration which leads to beautifully big, bold, and juicy flavors. This wine is dry, and best enjoyed with a slight chill, making it a perfect red for an Indian summer. In our house, this is almost always served with grilled pork, or adult lunchables (aka cheese and charcuterie).
Living Roots Wine & Co. Sparkling Red
Only one local winery offers their own wines from both the Finger Lakes and halfway around the world. The Rochester, Keuka Lake and Adelaide, Australia based winery is pushing the envelope with tasting experiences in each location. This bone-dry sparkling red blend with beautifully tiny bubbles features lagrein, teroldego, petite sirah, and shiraz from their Australian property. It already has a spot on our Thanksgiving table (with cornish hens for two), and deserves a spot on your table as well.
Weis Vineyards Heart of the Lake
If you’ve tasted wine at Weis Vineyards, then you’ve heard a bartender recite the numbers NY81.0315.17. This is the Cornell-official name of the riesling and cayuga hybrid grape used in a wine called Heart of the Lake. It was given the nickname by Melissa Caroll, co-owner of the previous winery in the same location, based on the view of the bluff. The Weis family felt strongly about maintaining the legacy (and deliciousness) of Heart of the Lake in their own winery years later. This semi-dry wine is very drinkable in most situations, but especially around a firepit with s’mores.
Maiah Johnson Dunn is a wine writer based in Rochester, New York. You can find more of her work on her website: maiah.com.